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42
Draft Designs
has really nice A-Pillar gauge
kits. Of course, having an '03 Jetta they are like "NOOOO! JOO HAVE
TEH AIRBAG!" but they say that to cover their arses. I talked to them, and
they are VERY cool people. So if you want a good a-pillar kit I recommend
checking them out.
Update: I adjusted the boost gauge so not crooked. I just grabbed the edges and twisted
until my fingers hurt. It worked fine though. I also popped the a-pillar back into place
for good, and there is no lasting mark that we ever had it off the frame. As for the buzzing
sound you'll see me talk about, apparently you can cut the line and put a cheap inline fuel
filter in and that stops the buzzing. However I'm told that this can drop your reading but
about 1 PSI and blahwhatever InHg (nobody seems to measure that but I'm sure it makes a difference.)
I haven't done this because I'm not sure I like that solution and if it's buzzing I know the
turbo is kicking in which is kinda neat... heh. I'll post if I come up with a better solution.
I finally got the buzzing to stop at the expense of gauge
accuracy. Get a metal inline fuel filter from jcwhitney and file down
the nipples so you can fit the overly tight 42dd tubing on it. Fill
it with sponge type material and the rattles stop. Like I said the
readings are wrong now. Piece of crap... Screw VDO don't buy their
shitty products. I'm looking for an Omori if they ever get back to the
US.
You can also contact Judo, who makes
gauge kits as well. He is a funny guy. That's all I'm saying...
;)
And, as with the stereo, thanks to my
friend Kevin. Unlike the last install he didn't stab me this time although
he probably wanted to... he he....
Another Update: I got rid of the
VDO gauge. Buh bye.... I was lucky enough to get an Omori prototype
(official version will be out soon at www.j-spectuning.com. Tell them
"the VW gauge guy" sent ya...). I also ran the new gauge from the diverter
valve line instead of the FPR. Why? Because if the FPR connection
goes bad you are (#!)!*&%)@ out of luck. If the dv line goes bad then
you lose boost but your engine doesn't explode or melt. :D I
recommend using this type of setup, but the old howto will be left online for
those of you who want the easier way which the FPR line really is. You
have to make custom fittings for the DV, but it's easy. I just went to
Lowes and brough some tubing and matched up some brass fittings and made a
custom t-splitter. Anyway here are some pics of the new setup.
Here is what the gauge looks like, I connected it to a 9v
battery when I first got it to make sure it really matches. It
does...
Here is what the connections off the DV look
like:
Some pics of the gauge and inside my car at night, the red
glow on the middle console is from the W8 console my friend Kevin and I
installed:
Equipment:
-
Solution 9 Boost Gauge Kit
(Comes with everything you need)
Tools:
Before
the Install, Some Words....
Follow the instructions given by the supplier! This
is just some info to help you along.
The gauge is NOT as bright as you
might like, but it does look good. I promise. The blue is muted and
the red pointer is like, 20% as visible as the stock dash. I guess if you
really played around with LED's and stuff you could get it to match better, but
I didn't have the time and I'm very happy with out it turned out anyway.
:)
Nobody makes a tan a-pillar kit
yet. If you are like me and have the tan interior, don't worry, the black
one looks like an extension of the dash.
Oh, it vibrates between 10-15
PSI. *That* really bothers me. I'm gonna ask 42DraftDesigns what's
up with it.
Ok, onward...
Installation:
First, a
few comments about boost gauges. If you are not comfortable cutting a tube, the
result being you can't use your engine, then don't do this. You of course
attach the tube to the gauge then everything works, but you do still cut the
thing in half rendering your motor useless metal. Fun fun!
Also, this install was a
biatch. Not like "oh my god I want to shoot whoever invented gauges" bad,
but there were some things that made me batty about doing this. Just a
warning, I usually have bad luck so most of you won't have any issues at
all. :P
Step one was to disconnect the
battery. Yah!
Then you pop the A-pillar off.
This was the second hardest part of the install. There is something I call
the "bitch clip" on the top of the a-pillar, it was difficult to get it to
pop.
Then, find the firewall hole under
the dash. You should take the drivers side panels off, and the metal
panel, and the side panel where the fuses are. You can see pics of that in
my head unit how to. The hole with the circle goes through the
firewall.
We then popped the dimmer toggle out
and used the ORANGE wire for GROUND, and the WIRE ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE for
POSITIVE. Do NOT use the middle wire unless you want the gauge to be non
dimmed, which some people do actually want since the LED is kinda dark.
The wire we used sends a variable voltage based on your dimmer toggle setting,
so it sorta fits in with the rest of the dash.
Solder the connectors and run them up
to the apillar hole near the bottom left of the window. You will see other
wires sticking out.
Leave everything hanging out in the
drivers side area, you will need to futz with cables and whatnot. Now we
move to the engine compartment. Wheee. The tube I'm holding is the
one that you are going to snip. You have to take the engine cover off to
see it of course.
Always fun to void your warranty,
isn't it? heh... The valve included fits very easily.
Now tie up your tube so there are no
rattles. I had to dremel the engine cover, which I plan on redoing at a
later date so it looks better. This is because of how I routed the wire,
up and around as opposed to going to the right. Matter of preference
really. The path is highlighted in yellow, and use zipties to attach it to
the tube it's following.
We now attach everything to the gauge. This part
sucked. In fact, I covertly drilled a hole in the back of the pod to put
the tube through because the angle was so bad by default. You can't tell,
it's really shady... ;) Now, I don't know if 42dd is consistant with how
they situate the LED so plug the wires in, reattach your batter, and turn the
lights on. See if the gauge is on, and remember which side you attached
the red wire too. We attached it to the prong with the / slashy mark on
it. Now unattach your battery again for safety. Plug the tube in
however you can, and make sure that damn thing is tight. I mean
TIGHT. I heard a scary snap, that ment "no more pssss sound" because the
first time I put the damn thing in it was ejecting air into my face. he
he....
Good luck, that part was a pain. I refuse to take my
pod apart ever again because of it. Before you attach the pod put the
battery back in, and turn your car on. The gauge should read around 10-25
InHg (whatever, just as long as it isn't 0) and the lights should work. If
you hear hissing you didn't push the tube in hard enough and might have to drill
the ShadyHole(TM) like I did.
Ok so now you attach the pod, with gauge tubes and wires
installed, to the a-pillar. We used hot glue, it's easy to work with and
can come off without too much trouble if necessary. Be careful of course,
and patient. Make sure the pod is on right. Now that it is all set,
gently (ok push harder than hell but don't gripe at me if you break anything)
put the a-pillar back. It was hard. In fact one of my snaps still
isn't in because I want to leave it off until I figure out what the buzzing
sound in the gauge is. And it was the "bitch clip" so I don't want to have
to mess with it again.
Put everything back together, cringe as you have to reset
your clock and stereo information (nooOOO!!!) and then turn the car on. It
looks like this:
Why is it crooked you dumby!?!? Well, I like the
angle so I left it. People who are ultra anal might want to make it ---
instead of / but you can set it however you want. Just make sure to set it
before you hook everything up to it....
And....
o.O! Like the fit over where my hands go, very easy
to see.
Finally (probably shouldn't take pictures while driving...
he he.):
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