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Equipment:
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No vent MBC from boostvalve.com
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A few feet of 1/4" hose
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Two 1/4" t-splitters
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Six 1/4" hose clamps
Tools:
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Flathead screwdriver
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Pliars (for OEM hose clamps if still attached)
Update: New pics on the bottom, I used the *real* kit that Ric sent me and it looks a lot better. I was able to
attach the MBC to the N75 for a really compact and easy to adjust setup.
First off, special thanks go to Ric over at www.boostvalve.com. I talked to him about the
problems that our community sometimes has with aftermarket N75 valves and overboost limp
mode, and he supplied me with a ton of equipment to try and find a solution with. I suggest
that you go to him with all your boost control needs. He is a great guy and an asset to the
community. Not just a vendor, but someone who likes seeing his products working well for his customers.
Now on to the good stuff. Basically many of you out there know what I’m talking about when
referring to "limp mode". It’s that horrible feeling when your car decided that it doesn’t
like what you are doing, and you will only be given 5 PSI of boost to play with from then
until you turn the car off. Point of fact, our cars are slow as hell with only 5 PSI, it sucks.
I have the APR 2.0 chip, I love it. But with the stock N75F valve I would get some surging at
partial throttle sometimes. Nothing dangerous but it did make my ride a bit less smooth than I
would have liked. For the record APR is smooth as butter at WOT though, in no way was this the
chips issue. The N75 wasn’t made for regulating that much power I guess.
A few months after getting chipped I discovered the N75J valve. It was the answer to my delemia.
It not only smoothed out the boost from 0-10PSI but it added quite a bit up top. I was holding
20PSI at mid range RPMs. However after a few months my car decided that it should be going into
limp mode every so often. It would happen after hitting 23PSI spikes or so, and it happened enough
to really worry me.
I needed to find a solution, I liked the smoothness of the N75J and didn’t want to give it up, and
I also wasn’t interested in bypassing the N75 with a manual boost controller. They tend to be
"all or nothing" and not very comfortable at partial throttle.
After talking to Ric we decided on a few plans to try out. Some involved bleeder valves, some
involved an MBC before the N75, but what worked was very simple in design and VERY effective.
Using a certain MBC that Ric supplied I put together some Tsplitters and ran the MBC inbetween
the boost and wastegate line before the N75J. I set the MBC to around 15 PSI to test, and the
first time out my car could absolutely not go above 15 PSI! It worked, we had found an effective
way to limit boost while maintaining the perks of using an aftermarket N75 valve.
Right now I have it set at 19 PSI or so, I haven’t gone into limp mode since. The car is also
smoother. No more spikes, it goes up to 19 PSI and holds until the redline fade to 11 PSI or so.
I think that this is healthier for the turbo in general but really the goal of stopping limp mode
has been met.
If you would like to order such a kit from Ric at www.boostvalve.com just send him an email asking
him about it, tell him you are looking for the "1.8t overboost solution that you worked on with Chris"
and he will know what you are talking about.
Installation:
The installation is easy. Just put the MBC "in between" the t-splitters and then put the device
inline running from the original boost and wastegate hoses to your N75 as in this diagram:
This picture is from Ric's instructions on www.boostvalve.com
Here are some pictures of the kit installed:
Because this is an adjustable system, you can tweak your MBC until you get the results you desire.
I have mine at around 19 PSI, that effectively stopped overboost limp mode and I still get a great
deal of power out of the N75J! :)
New setup:
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