This is how I'm saving on space. You have to click the older news headers to expand their content.

So there, no more 500 pages of news to scroll through!

Hooo boy this trip was probably the last big hurrah for the Jetta. No point putting more money into it short of maintaince or if I break an axel.

New intake manifold, 80mm throttle body, mocal oil cooler, VR6 O2A transmission, fog lights, etc etc.

Forgot to grab the dyno but even without tuning the Eurodyne software put down 335 WHP. Plus with Maestro I can tweak it myself without sending it back to the tuner for flashing!

(Updated from original post since the LED's finally shipped and were installed.)

Info on lighting changes are here.

Also I removed the EVAP, SAI, and like 20 feet of junk vac line from the Jetta.

Wasn't expecting any real difference but the DV does close more crisply, makes sense because there's no other lines pulling the same vac signal.

Oh, happy new year. I'm lazy so this is the first post of '09.

So there is a new VW in our family! I signed for a 2009 Tiguan-S 2.0T 6 speed manual last week.

I'm keeping the Jetta because, well, it's too much fun to get rid of. And we are just leasing the Tiguan. That means there will be less modding (read: none really) but there are some things I need to do for the Sirius receiver etc so maybe I'll post up an info chart of anything I find useful on the way. (First goal is to find a switched power source for the receiver....)

Details on the car are here.

Info on air filter changes are here.

Please note that I have collapsed the previous news posts to minimized for the new year, click on them to expand and view the content.

I wanted more control over my car so I bought a UNI BT ECU and 630 cc injectors.

Was a minimal swap to go from the APR kit to this, just the ecu, injectors and the MAF housing.

Now I can use my MBC to control boost plus the Uni file is written for my cams, so I should see gains.

Dynos to verify soon! My goal is to see how Uni compares to APR @ 20 PSI on pump, that's an apples to apples comparison.

Then because Uni allows me to control my own boost I will go at 22 PSI, and finally 25 PSI with the Water/Methanol injection.

What's nice is that when I finally sell the car I can put the APR parts back and sell the Uni BT stuff seperately.

Besides contacting me on VWVortex (User ID is IzVW) you can now reach me with questions, comments, etc at:
izvwnj@gmail.com

I can't promise that I will check it all that often so if you don't get a reply right away don't think I'm ignoring it.

Well, everything is exactly as I expected. More power for more RPM's, it never even really falls off. You absolutely can see the blip at 5500 RPM's where they really kick in, just as Don R. has been saying. Someone with a built top end could probably get power from these cams well past the 7k that I did.

I'm very pleased that I'm making as much power as I am with only 20 PSI. I can't turn it up as long as the N75 is connected, the software just backs it out. I could be a dyno queen and put an MBC on (soooo tempting!!!) but I figured for now, let's just put it on the rollers as it is on the street and let 'er rip.

The other thing is that the peak power was not a spike, it was smooth and held nicely all the way to the top (especially the 100 octane map). Mmmmm.

Thanks to AP Tuning and Pat Brown for all the work that got the car here!

For reference here are the numbers:
Highest with the GT28R:
285whp/315wtq @ 25 PSI 100 oct (Stage 3)

Previous with GT28RS:
285whp/300wtq @ 24 PSI 93 oct (Stage 3+)

Current:
294whp/281wtq @ 20 PSI 93 oct (Stage 3+)
315whp/307wtq @ 20 PSI 100 oct (Stage 3+)

Check the dyno images here.

Certain bad influences convinced me to get some Cat cams while I could get my hands on them.... Ended up with 3651's and an adjustable cam sprocket.

Had to fix a leaky valve cover gasket anyway so the timing was perfect. Also redid the PCV system and put a new guide here on how to do so with a mix of stock and aftermarket parts, while still utilizing my DIY catch can.

There will be dyno's shortly but I can say for sure that the power delivery is much smoother, there is no huge torque spike, and the thing pulls like a bat out of hell until redline now. No idle issues either.

Well, the old website was done quick and really REALLY dirty just to get the information on the web.

But it was an eyesore and sucked to work with!

This one may not look all that much better to some of you (pffft) but it's easier to update and maintain.

The old news posts are in the top "Archived News" link. Most of the old links are still here, with the same layout such as having a left hand table of contents.

Any old bookmarks you have probably won't work as this site is physically NOTHING like the old one.

However none of the content was removed so all the HowTo's, articles etc are all here somewhere.